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Nazis in the Gulf of Mexico

Due to its vulnerability to hurricanes and flooding, much punditry has been devoted to the idea that New Orleans shouldn’t exist. Despite being a 300-year-old city in the ranks of several important, much older cities worldwide also built below sea level and far from the only American city vulnerable to hurricanes, some consider New Orleanians irresponsible for living where they do. Why on earth was the city put there in the first place?

There is a very good reason that New Orleans and its surrounding communities were built where they were and where they remain today. The mouth of the Mississippi is one of the most important trade points and one of the most militarily vulnerable areas on the continent. Its ownership was hotly contested as soon as Europeans knew it existed. Own the Mississippi, and you could carve the nation in half. Ambitions to control it were enough to nearly shatter the fledgling United States right after the Revolutionary War. At the time of World War II, it still looked like an inviting chink in American armor to the Axis powers.

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The Bayou Boats that Made D-Day

Almost without fail, visitors’ first response when they learn that the National D-Day Museum is in New Orleans goes something like, “Here? Why?”

Next to the image of French beaches, concentration camps, kamikaze pilots, and nuclear explosions, New Orleans typically doesn’t come to mind when one thinks of World War II. Yet it could be convincingly argued that few if any other American cities were as important to the war effort.

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See the Eiffel Tower… in New Orleans!

It must have sounded irresistible. When chef Daniel Bonnot first told his partner, hotelier John Onorio, that they could buy an actual part of the Eiffel Tower and set it up as a restaurant in New Orleans right before the 1984 World’s Fair kicked off in town, it had to sound like a can’t-lose proposition. If you’ve been paying attention, you know there’s no such thing as a can’t-lose proposition in New Orleans, but this had to sound as close as it was possible to come.

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A Warehouse on Tchoupitoulas

If there were a Valhalla for the gods of 70s rock, A Warehouse on Tchoupitoulas would have been a contender.

The concert venue called itself “A Warehouse on Tchoupitoulas” on its posters, and it was just that. From the photos that remain, it doesn’t look much different from the other 19th century red brick warehouses that line the Mississippi upriver from the Central Business District, but it would witness pivotal moments in rock history.

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A First Grader, Federal Marshals, and Separate but Inequal in New Orleans

It’s not one of Norman Rockwell’s most popular paintings. Maybe we just prefer scenes of boys in barber shops, fishermen at sea, or young couples in love. Rockwell’s The Problem We All Live With reminds us of a time we wish we could forget, and we may not be entirely sure it’s in the past.

In the painting’s foreground, a girl in braids and a white dress walks, carrying school books and surrounded by federal marshals. Spattered vegetables drip down a backdrop of racist graffiti behind her. It’s desegregation day in New Orleans, 1960. The little girl is Ruby Bridges. She’s the first and only African American child to enroll at all-white William Frantz Elementary and the first to attend an all-white Southern elementary school.

How did we get here? Turn back the clock sixty-some years to 1896 and slide a short way upriver to the railroad track at Royal and Press streets.

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